Cadair Idris to Barmouth on Cambrian Way: Day 14

A journey of four parts: the peaks of Cadair Idris, before dropping into lower hills, then flat ground around the estuary and finally the sensual delights of Barmouth (viz coffee and cake, shower and beer).

As I crunched on biscuits and a granola bar for breakfast in the cosy warmth of my sleeping bag, through the  tent flaps the sun was reddening the sky before rising majestic over distant hills (the Long Mynd in Shropshire maybe). 

Sunrise from Cadair Idris.

Reluctantly packing up I climbed up the ridge across the rough grass to the rocks of Penygadair, the highest summit of Cadair Idris, admiring the steep cliffs of the surrounding range. From the trig point I could see my route down to Barmouth, the sea and estuary, and in the further grey distance, up the Rhinogau and onto Snowdon. There is a stone shelter beside the summit but it was rather damp inside and I am glad I camped.

The way down.

Curious sheep.

From Penygadair the Cambrian Way starts off down the relatively easy "Pony Trail", but rather than following it down to lower ground, it heads off up yet one more summit before finally descending down a steep slope, lacking a path, with rough ground, reeds, prickly gorse and the like to finally join a small road. A circuitous route follows, no doubt to visit one of the lakes in the area and a steep sided, steeply dropping wooded valley where foaming water cascades down over rocks (the Arthog waterfalls). A lady I passed described it as exhilarating. Finally reaching flat ground, the trail wanders over an old railway, now a popular cycle track, before reaching the wooden viaduct that still carries trains over the Mawddach estuary to Barmouth. As it was built in 1867 I was surprised such a wooden structure was still standing. Maintenance work of some kind was underway no doubt to stop it falling down. There is a pedestrian walkway cum cycle track beside the railway line on the viaduct from which a family was watching the oyster catchers pecking at the sand banks and generally making a noise.

View down towards Barmouth. 

Wooden viaduct to Barmouth.

Barmouth is a Victorian resort full of people and their dogs. Fortunately I had booked a room some days ago as all the Bed & Breakfast establishments I passed had "no vacancies" signs. September is usually less popular in Britain than July and August as children are at school, but with the Coronavirus pandemic holidays seem to have been pushed back and many people were enjoying the afternoon sun and the fish and chips.