Friday, September 18, 2020

Maentwrog to Beddgelert on the Cambrian Way: Day 17

Two big peaks conquered today in a blustery wind, followed by a more relaxed walk to Beddgelert for a late lunch.

All was calm when I woke this morning and decamped. I began the steep climb up Moelwyn Mawr. Halfway up there is a reservoir behind a long concrete dam. Together with a reservoir in the valley near where I camped, they form a pumped storage system. The concept is that when spare electricity is available on the National Grid, water is pumped from the lower to the upper reservoir. Then after some popular television show, when everyone puts the kettle on creating an upward spike in demand, water is released from the upper to the lower reservoir turning turbines as it flows down. These turbines power electricity generators giving a rapid boost in electricity supply. There were a few yellow "Perygl Danger" signs scattered about, I was unable to identify what specifically they were warning of and I suspected it was just a "cover your bottom" exercise. 

Upper reservoir of pumped storage facility. 

Above the top reservoir I climbed to a pass between two mountains, the wind had been gathering strength as I climbed across the open hillside and at the saddle its force was so great it threatened to blow away my trekking pole and possibly me as well! I thought of taking an alternative route but in the belief that the two mountains either side of me were funnelling the wind, increasing is strength, I started up the ridge to the top of Moelwyn Mawr, keeping to the lee side of the mountain, or using larger rocks for shelter whenever possible. 

Successfully reaching the rounded top of the mountain, after a very brief look at the extensive panorama, I started down the next section of the ridge, now into the wind, which at least kept my glasses firmly in place. Once down near the abandoned Rhosydd slate quarry conditions were quieter as I looked at the remains of old quarry buildings, examined the orange rusted remains of a winch and walked down an inclined tramway.

Walking down inclined tramway at Rhosydd quarry. 

Engine of old winch, but why are only two of the four cylinders scaled up?

Cnicht was the next summit, a shapely peak sometimes described as the Welsh Matterhorn (although a very, miniature version of the real thing). Although there was a strong breeze I managed to negotiate the ascent and descent over the rock outcrops and even find a sheltered spot for an "elevenses" of peanut butter and rich tea biscuits. On following the ridge down I met many people coming past me on the way up this popular peak. Looking ahead I was somewhat perturbed that the route seemed to be taking me to Porthmadog rather than Beddgelert. Today's stage is quite serpentine and eventually a change in direction took me along a quiet road, across another narrow gauge railway line, and finally on a scenic riverside path beside the Afon Glaslyn. A fair amount of walking over rocks was required and some of the many tourists on the pretty trail had rather inadequate footwear.

Walk up Afon Glaslyn.

At Beddgelert it was lunch, coffee, cake and a little shopping watching the endless jostling of cars turning onto the bridge in a village never designed for the motor car much less anything larger. Accommodation was full and the campsites on my way were closed, so I followed the next stage of the Cambrian Way, a lakeside walk by Lyn Dinas. Visitors were enjoying the view, sitting in family groups by the water in the sunshine.

I faced a quandary, lacking an alternative I needed to wild camp. The next part of the walk involved climbing Snowdon starting along the Watkin path. As the Met office's mountain weather forecast indicated gales on higher ground I did not wish to climb too far up, but lower ground had too many people and farms who might not appreciate my tent. In the event I climbed a little way up the path,  passing people descending for the night, then walked up to ground on the left with some low hills which I thought might provide some shelter and where I would be hidden from any ranger who might wish to move me on. While there was not as much protection as I hoped to the now steady wind, I am hoping my tent will manage, sheltered by a rather small outcrop of rock.

Snowdon from a distance. 



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